Nicky Zimmermann’s shows are not just about nice dresses, though her Zimmermann label reliably turns out the kind of breezy resort looks popularized by “The White Lotus.”
She will usually mine a more or less obscure facet of Australian culture as a show theme, providing a bridge between Paris and Sydney that mirrors the creative exchange between the studio teams she has spread over both cities.
Her spring collection was inspired by the artists of Lavender Bay, a waterfront enclave in the suburbs of Sydney known for its bohemian lifestyle in the ’70s. “They had incredible parties,” she said in a preview. “If the Rolling Stones were playing, they’d head straight to Lavender Bay to hang out with the artists.”
There was a hazy, psychedelic vibe to her warped floral prints, worked into crinoline skirts with stiff bands of tufted tulle, or the rainbow tie-dye patterns on strapless parachute dresses and frothy layered tops. “I always like the garments to have a lot of air and movement, but the idea was to get the florals to really move,” the designer said.
While Zimmermann is known mainly for its romantic dresses and colorful prints, it has morphed into a full lifestyle brand with a year-round wardrobe to match. Highlights included a crisp white openwork shirt with a handstitched bird motif, earth-toned swimsuits worn as tops, and a chic leather duster coat.
Period photos of the Lavender Bay collective show the men wearing tonal outfits, an idea the designer spun into color-blocked silhouettes with retro-style pockets and little ring details: think utility jackets with billowing sleeves, sculptural flares and chic overalls.
Sitting front row was Lana Del Rey, who is such a fan that she namechecked the label in a poem she published in 2020, which she recited for the show soundtrack composed by Mimi Xu.
“The way she sees femininity is the same way we do: that it’s powerful and strong and beautiful at the same time. And I think that’s how people see, feel, hear her music, and for us, there’s just such a great synergy with that,” Zimmermann said.
In the poem, Del Rey describes wearing a Zimmermann dress as she leaves an old lover behind. It’s one way to beat summertime sadness.
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